There are certain features on shirts that make it either formal or casual. Collars with more than 1 button are typically higher and therefore more casual because if you try to knot a tie around it, chances are it looks a bit off. So these shirts look better without a tie.
Check out the ‘Big P’ wearing a two-button-collar shirt, styled in a way that it still looks a bit formal:
Rob is one of the professional Oger PA’s (Personal Assistants) in the Oger Rotterdam flagship store.
A perfect example of how you can make colors work for you. Understanding the difference between materials in the same colors provides a strong appearance.
Suit: Oger DFS (Dressed For Succes)
Shirt: Oger DFS
Tie: Corneliani
Pocket square: Oger
Watch: DKNY
Belt: Oger
Socks: Dore Dore
Shoes: Santoni
This week I noticed that a lot of stores already received their new winter collection. Beautiful materials and colors this winter, but I get hot just looking at the bristly, wintery fabrics such as flannel. It seems that retail keeps on dropping the winter collection earlier and earlier. The first one that introduces the winter collection has the first pick by the consumers? However, I believe that there is a phase between the summer and winter, where you can keep warm and stylish with just a scarf: easy and breezy in autumn equinox.
WARNING!!!!! Once you go ‘made-to-measure’ you cannot go back to wearing off the rack shirts. It is addictive because these shirts are tailored to your body and personal preferences.
There are many stores and brands offering made-to-measure shirt services. I would advise you to always have them done by a professional in a physical store, and not via the Internet. Those Internet services will ask you to measure your body at several points. But you are probably unskilled and will therefore measure the wrong things. In addition, the salesman in the store can tell you which great things are possible with made-to-measure wear.
The typical process goes like this (Sometimes you will first pick the fabric and have them measure you later)
Mitchell is one of the professional Oger PA’s (Personal Assistants).
What a pleasant surprise his outfit was. The pocket square, the opened buttons on his jacket and shirt made me believe that there is more than just a suit. The clothing hanger on his arm shows his passion for the business. A true Suitorialist.
Jacket: Bruno Cucinelli made-to-measure
Shirt: Borelli made-to-measure
Tie: Oger DFS (Dressed For Succes)
Pocket square: Oger DFS
Watch: Oficina del Tiempo
Pants: Incotex
Belt: Santoni
Shoes: Santoni
There are a lot of different fabrics and fabric combinations that can make a beautiful suit. This week I will discuss the Pinstripe. In the following weeks, I will discuss other fabrics. If you would like to learn more about a certain suit fabric, please comment below so I can provide some intel on it.
Part 1: The Pinstripe
You can find the pinstriped suit in any color you want and in any culture you are. The most popular one is the blue suit with the white pinstripes. Following close are the grey and anthracite suits with white pinstripes. The grey suit has the reputation of being boring as it is the most seen suit. The anthracite suit has the reputation of being the most classical one.
If an Aston Martin DB9 is the car of all cars, a bespoke Brioni suit is the suit of all suits. If we are ever going to make a profit from this website, I would like to invest in a Brioni…. Their off-the-rack suits are approximately usd $5,000 at entry level. Bespoke Brioni suits range from usd $6,000 to up to $50,000. Donald Trump is a Brioni fan. Bobby is too….
Brioni has been around since 1945. Hero tailor Nazereno Fonticoli and his venturing partner Gaetano Savini named their brand after a resort on the coast of the Adriatic Sea. They opened a store in New York in 1954, pioneering their way into the American elite fashionistas and wealthy businessmen, celebrities and Mafioso.
Jan is one of the professional Oger PA’s (Personal Assistants) in the Oger Rotterdam flagship store.
I really like the lapels on this Paul Smith jacket. Jan perfectly styled the tie with the jacket and pocket square. He shows us how similar shades of blue with different patterns can look superb if thoughtfully executed.
Glasses: Tom Ford
Jacket: Paul Smith
Shirt: Oger DFS (Dressed For Success)
Tie: Oger
Pocket square: Etro
Watch: Tag Heuer
Pants: Incotex
Belt: Santoni
Jackets of suits have a lining that commonly consists of several layers of cotton, silk and linen that are stitched to the fabric of which the suit is made. A decent jacket has camel or horse hairs in the lining to enhance the fit of the jacket around the upper body of the wearer. Those hairs have ‘memory’ and will follow the contours of the wearer’s body over time. However, the lining also makes a jacket heavier and warmer. For winter, full lining suits are perfect. But for the summer I prefer to wear suits of which the jacket only has the minimum lining in the shoulders and for the sleeves to keep me cooler.
The suit jacket below has lining for the shoulders and the sleeves and therefore wears much cooler than the full lining jacket above. Linen suits, such as the one below, are sometimes without lining which brings a very nonchalant look to the table.
Joel is one of the professional Oger PA’s (Personal Assistants) in the Oger Rotterdam flagship store.
I love his slim-fit cuffed pants! This seems to become a trend.. The Sartorialist posted some photos of gentlemen wearing slim-fitted flat-front pants with cuffs at the bottom… Joel’s subtle yet amazingly styled pocket square looks great on him too.
Jacket: Brunello Cucinelli
Shirt: Oger DFS (Dressed For Success)
Tie: Brunello Cucinelli
Pocket square: Jacob Cohen
Watch: Gant
Pants: Jacob Cohen
Belt: Santoni
Shoes: Santoni
