Fused or unfused collars and cuffs

21 Nov , 2009  

Do you prefer fused or unfused collars and cuffs on your shirts?

We are going to make this an interactive discussion on what type of collar and cuffs are preferred by you, and if it should be fused, unfused or have no lining at all. Scroll down to comment.

Karl Lagerfeld’s (probably) fused shirt collar, look how rigid it is!


Only the best bespoke shirt makers allow their customers to choose whether they want the collars and cuffs of their shirts with lining and how the lining is going to be attached to the fabric. Basically, this discussion is similar to whether a suit jacket has a floating canvassed or a fused (glued) one.

Check out JFK, a style hero.. His shirt’s collar seems quite rigid, but could either be fused or unfused. It’s difficult to see.


The collar and the cuffs of the shirt need to be harder than the body of the shirt. Shirt makers take two layers of shirt fabric and sandwich an interlining (harder material) that acts as a skeleton that provides rigidity and shape. The ever-lasting battle between the world’s best shirt and suit craftsmen continues… UK shirt makers prefer to sew the interlining to the collar fabric, similar to a floating canvas of a suit. You may try to pull the collar fabric in opposite directions and feel the two layers parting from the interlining. Unfused collars and cuffs like these are typically less rigid than those made by the Italians.

Off-topic but interesting: The trend today is the cut-away collar that is displayed on the right in the next photo. The classic collar on the left typically shows the tips when wearing a jacket. I prefer the cut-away since the tips of the collar tend to stick nicely underneath the jacket’s lapels and it draws more attention to the knot of the tie.


The Italians prefer fused collars. They glue the interlining to one or both layers of collar fabric. You may try to pull the layers but find that there’s either no movement or one side will move just a little bit. Fused collars and cuffs typically look more rigid, and to my opinion; more formal!

Option 3: The following photo shows my fat neck in a made-to-measure shirt from SuitSupply. The semi-widespread collars contain no interlining at all! That is why it looks so loose and casual. I only like collars without interlining if closed and worn with a tie. I prefer the Italian fused collars when wearing the collar opened since the collar then stays better in place.


What is your preferred type of collar and cuffs?

Fashionable regards,



About suitsociety


  1. I’m a cutaway man… don’t know why…

  2. Lance Miller says:

    Me too man! I prefer the cut-away over any other type of collar because it breaks nicely with the lapels and the collar also tends to stay behind the lapels and not move over them as you would see in 60s and 70s.. :)

  3. Bertie says:

    Hi Lance,

    congratulation it’s a very high level article and you are very smart on the picture of your collar shirt : splendid !
    I’m wearing classic collar (call sometimes french collar :-)) ; but I like very much the cutaway with a half windsor knot tie (as we see on your picture or italian knot isnt’it ?).
    Perhaps you could also write and show a picture of Gianni Agnelli who had the particularity to worn her button-down collar shirts unbuttoned and had inspired a lot of Italian who made the same thing today (see sometimes Diego della Valle or Luca di Montezemelo).
    For a next article ?….

    Best regards,

  4. Lance says:

    Thanks Bertie!! French collar for a French gentleman :) Gianni = ON!! Lapo Elkann’s grand father right? I think Lapo inherted some of his suits and had them alternated to fit his body. Loads of double breasted jackets but nicely fitted.

    How’s life in Paris?



  5. Great little article Lance, I’m already a fan of the site.

    I enjoy the spread or cutaway collar the most. As you put, it gives more focus on the knot and adds a little extra modern chic to it. I love the way a fused collar looks, even though I wear a tie at most times, in the moment when going without, a proud collar is a eye keeper to contrast a well fitting suit.

    I like the double cuff, but since i’ve grown a liking to cuff links, I’m starting to get more into french cuffed shirts.

    Again, thanks for the detailed article.

  6. stephan strack says:

    Nice article, Great information about the production and difference. Personally I like them both, with my preference going to the classical collar.

  7. Jacob Miller says:

    I’m definitely an enthusiast of unfused collars and cuffs after having too many fused shirts “bubble” after a few launderings. I also like the straight collar and don’t have a preference on the cuffs. Thanks for the article.

  8. David Blaine says:

    Thanks so much for the information. I have looked for Karl Lagerfeld collar since the Chanel commercial with Nicole Kidman (The making of the Chanel ) This answers the questions I had. As a seamstress son and actually making a suit of lights (Matador) for my partner that lived in Mexico City for several years and I always thought he looked like a Matador, I thought there must be some lining for that crisp look. I will attempt this for my own designs in shirts. Much Thanks, DB Toronto ON