We are going to make this an interactive discussion on what type of collar and cuffs are preferred by you, and if it should be fused, unfused or have no lining at all. Scroll down to comment.
Karl Lagerfeld’s (probably) fused shirt collar, look how rigid it is!
Only the best bespoke shirt makers allow their customers to choose whether they want the collars and cuffs of their shirts with lining and how the lining is going to be attached to the fabric. Basically, this discussion is similar to whether a suit jacket has a floating canvassed or a fused (glued) one.
Check out JFK, a style hero.. His shirt’s collar seems quite rigid, but could either be fused or unfused. It’s difficult to see.
The collar and the cuffs of the shirt need to be harder than the body of the shirt. Shirt makers take two layers of shirt fabric and sandwich an interlining (harder material) that acts as a skeleton that provides rigidity and shape. The ever-lasting battle between the world’s best shirt and suit craftsmen continues… UK shirt makers prefer to sew the interlining to the collar fabric, similar to a floating canvas of a suit. You may try to pull the collar fabric in opposite directions and feel the two layers parting from the interlining. Unfused collars and cuffs like these are typically less rigid than those made by the Italians.
Off-topic but interesting: The trend today is the cut-away collar that is displayed on the right in the next photo. The classic collar on the left typically shows the tips when wearing a jacket. I prefer the cut-away since the tips of the collar tend to stick nicely underneath the jacket’s lapels and it draws more attention to the knot of the tie.
The Italians prefer fused collars. They glue the interlining to one or both layers of collar fabric. You may try to pull the layers but find that there’s either no movement or one side will move just a little bit. Fused collars and cuffs typically look more rigid, and to my opinion; more formal!
Option 3: The following photo shows my fat neck in a made-to-measure shirt from SuitSupply. The semi-widespread collars contain no interlining at all! That is why it looks so loose and casual. I only like collars without interlining if closed and worn with a tie. I prefer the Italian fused collars when wearing the collar opened since the collar then stays better in place.
What is your preferred type of collar and cuffs?