Trend spotted: Rolled cuffs!
I see them on jeans and khaki pants.. but also on suit pants, are the cuffed pants of the suit sexy again!?
Thom Brown has always tried to dress men in short(-er) pants. This photo was taken at his office with some colleagues. Noticeable is that these suit pants are not plain-bottom but cuffed. The etiquette explains that cuffed pants should have pleads just below the waist belt. The rule then is: pleaded pants should have cuffed trousers! But in Italy, I have seen many men in suits wearing a flat front pant that are cuffed at the bottom. Are they winking to the etiquette? They set a new trend, and the world is following.
Also big jeans manufacturers! I bought a pair of G-star jeans today that had rolled cuffs. The sales lady explained to me that this was the correct way of wearing them. À la mode… On their website they show a video from the catwalk at the NY fashion week, I saw more rolled cuffs.
What do you think about rolled cuffs: hot or not?
What do you think about ankle socks: hot or not?
Photo’s are from Scott Schuman’s Sartorialist!
Lance
Related posts:
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- How to Wear Suspenders
- How to Wear Suspenders Video
- When and How to Wear Cufflinks
- How To Get The Length Of The Pants Of Your Suit Right.
28 Responses
To be complete I think it’s interesting to remind the first man who rolled up her bottom pants was the King Edward VII during a horse run at Epson around 1910 to protect if from the muck. Imagine if it’s no rain at Epson those days men never rolled up her pants ?
This story explain why when you made the hemline of your pant with a roll-up it’s better to had a shorter trousers as if you had made it yourselves like the King Edward…
About the question if it’s hot or not, I think it’s a good way to show a beautiful pair of shoes, color of socks or without socks, but be carfeul if you are not very tall a short rolled up pants can shorten your legs and it’s not necessary very attractive.
Posted on October 10th, 2009 at 8:45 am
@ Bertie: Nice info! I also like to roll the cuffs of the pants. Short pants with rolled cuffs look good too. I dislike short pants that are too long (covering the knee) What do you think? Short pants with rolled cuffs.. fashion?
Posted on October 10th, 2009 at 10:38 am
Very interesting Bertie!… in addition, during WWI, the British military decided to remove the traditional cuffs in the pants to save fabric and thus money.
Futher, I think it’s very HOT to wear rolled cuffs because nobody seems to be able to wear them wth style. I once saw a Suitorialist walking down the street and his cuffs were only 2,5cm / 1 inch) high, which makes the rolled cuff look much more sophisticated than the conventional 4cm / 1.6…
Posted on October 11th, 2009 at 2:17 am
What do you guys think of the monk strap shoe is the third picture (the right shoe with the open part)? I dislike them very much.. Someone on design was still a bit hangover
Posted on October 12th, 2009 at 4:31 pm
I do like Thom Brown’s style with the shorter pants, too bad he always wears black shoes, other colors would be nice also. Would do you think?
Posted on October 12th, 2009 at 4:32 pm
Don’t worry Lance, you dislike them because they aren’t for you, I’m quite sure it’s a woman model inspirated by “William” who is the most popular model (a monk one) of John Lobb very famous brand English shoes. Please note you will had more info about John Lobb when Bobby will agree my sbuject soon published here I hope
I don’t know wish producer made the shoes from this picture, the leather look higher quality and I found it rather original for a girl wearring a denim … but if the sun shine she wil had a tan mark on his feet ahahah !
Posted on October 12th, 2009 at 4:53 pm
Hahaha!!! Good to hear Bertie, I was getting a bit worried that wo(men)’s fashion is getting blurred.. Looking forward to reading your article! You seem to know a lot about the passion we share
Best,
Posted on October 12th, 2009 at 5:04 pm
Lance, you seems very inspirated by the short pant suit from Thom Brown ; don’t you think Thom Brown wouldn’t made a copy of guitar hero “Angus” from the ACDC 80’s hard rock band ?
More seriously about your question with the black shoes… I think Thom Browne is trying to made an excentric suit of the traditionnal grey office employe. So he made an adjusted jacket a short pant and he need to wear traditional black shoes for stay in the feeling he want show us, it’s a very artistic view…
I don’t know if you understand what I try to explain, I had some limits with my English sorry.
Posted on October 12th, 2009 at 5:10 pm
Yes I do understand the message you are trying to bring across, I think
Let me know if my answer shows that I understood you well.
A: If that is the case, then I wonder if Thom made any success among the typical grey suit wearers.. I mean, the majority of suit wearing men in the world will choose the grey suit and black shoes, a boring (probably white) shirt and a tie that doesn’t add any real value to their look. Those men probably don’t know Thom and would never alternate their pants to such short lenght, since this doesn’t fit their personal style, neither does it fit with their jobs.. But, then you are right with saying Thom is artistic and somewhat bullying these grey-suit-black-shoes-men. Don’t you think? I still prefer other colored shoes over black ones. Black ones have a habit of looking too formal.
What do you think Bertie?!
Regards,
Lance
Posted on October 12th, 2009 at 5:20 pm
I think it’s a very interesting discuss and I really like this blog and the way is tracking….
Let’s try to give you my opinion : the typical grey suit wearers don’t care about Thom Browne, and we can add as you say : they usually don’t know him ! but I think it’s neccessary to say also the Thom Browne suit are very expensive and the majority of classic office employee can’t buy a suit from this brand and in second it’s not really easy to wear a Thom Browne suit with her suit pant short for exemple, every-day and in every job category.
On an other side and the most interesting for everybody (also for the traditionnal office employee) my last girl friend who was a fashion victim tall you fashion designer are genuine artist like painter, sculptor etc. so Thom Brown is an artist and with his work the world is running, today with his suit he is thinking and ask us to think about our society, about what we are and how we live, Thom Brown, Heidi Slimane and Tom Ford for example are working on how the mens will dress tomorow so how the traditionnal office employee will wear tomorow because the low coast clothes company will copy this style. For exemple Slimane give the slim influance copy by H&M, Zara and everybody…
clothes are everything except light about our lives…
to finish : wish shoes colour are you wearing with a light grey suit ? because me I hadn’t imagination (or taste) to wear something other than black
Best regards
Posted on October 12th, 2009 at 8:18 pm
@bertie:
I think I understand what you want to point out. The fashion designer wants to be an artist. His work isn’t only a garment, for example a shirt, but also or firstly a piece of art.
I think in the most jobs, you can not wear pants short like the ones shown above. I do like the rolled trousers, but I can’t really get the point of the “so short” suit-pants… But to come to your point again, art is always to be seen and understood in the way the one looking at it wants to see it!
With a light grey suit I would also wear black shoes, but maybe brown would also work?
Posted on October 12th, 2009 at 8:43 pm
@ Bertie: Respect! And respect for the artists, where would we be without them? Inspirationless?
No really, good vision/philosophy to which I can relate!
To answer your question: If the suit is very dark greyish: light brown or cognac colored shoes look nice since the contrast breaks the suit pants at the bottom of the suit and with the belt. Lighter shades of grey suits can also match nicely with dark brown suede shoes. My favorite fabric grey suit is the bird’s eye for sure. What is yours?
@ Karl: Agreed
Posted on October 12th, 2009 at 8:51 pm
ps. Heidi Slimane is great
Posted on October 12th, 2009 at 8:56 pm
Gentlemen I think now everybody here is ok about Thom Browne ah ah ah ah
let’s go now we had the grey suit colour shoes problem ! we are not living easy life !
To confess like a majority of Parisian inspirated by the left side (St Germain des Près) I’m wearing now only blanck and white, so it’s easier !
However Lance I agree cognac it’s a VERY GOOD choice !!
Posted on October 12th, 2009 at 9:07 pm
Posted on October 12th, 2009 at 9:39 pm
@Lance : it’s very simple I had only now one suit in my wardrobe : a black slim one buy in ready to wear without famous brand but very well fitted. I wear it with a pair of John Lobb double monk shoes, a white made to measure shirt with my usally woolen silk tie from Charvet.
I spent several years to simplify at the maximum my wardrobe and out of my suit I’m wearing every day a black or brut denim with a black or grey fitted jacket. There are only white shirts in my wardrobe, a majority of black shoes from the most famous producers and that’s all folks.
Posted on October 13th, 2009 at 8:19 am
@ Bertie: that’s exactly the utopia were I long to be: looking great in the suit every day with a simplified wardrobe. There is also an advantage if you only wear white shirts: you can wear any kind/color tie you desire. This way, you are able to reflect a different style each day..
….Do you wear different ties or are they also all simplified to the max?
My favorite suit is (just like lance) the woolen dark-grey bird’s eye. This kind of fabric is very comfortable to wear and for the next couple of bad-weather-months, I will appreciate the heaviness of the wool/suit: it will keep me warm and Suitorial..
Posted on October 13th, 2009 at 11:34 am
@ Bertie: Nice! Double monks are the best. They’re still missing from my wardrobe, should save some cash to get them..
@ Bobby: We have the same suits, we exchanged shoes and travel bags, what’s next? Want to sit my house for a while?
Posted on October 13th, 2009 at 11:53 am
Rolled cuffs - hot when it’s one turn-up on jeans, 2 turn-ups on other pants, no turn-up on suite pants unless you are wearing a waist coat instead of the suit jacket - makes the look more casual which then suites the turn-up.
Ankle-socks - not liking this yet…
Posted on October 13th, 2009 at 12:33 pm
… in fact I have black hair, I need glasses and they are black so the black-suit/white-shirt/black tie looks very nice for me.
@Bobby : I keep different ties in my wardrobe but I’m wearing only this woolen silk one; once again it’s the best choice with a black suit and white shirt. I like this tie very much because it’s giving me an artistic look both when I need to look formal and informal….
….and I dream with Charvet… this is also a woolen silk tie, which also looks great with a denim and a fitted jacket.
Anyway you are absolutely right: a dark grey woolen suit is a very good choice, very smart and you can mix it with any colour shirts/tie and shoes…
Posted on October 13th, 2009 at 12:59 pm
Hi Michelle! It’s GREAT to have a woman’s opinion about this topic, thanks for sharing it with us!! Interesting how you reason that jeans and other pants should have different amounts of turn-ups. No that I come to think about it, you’re right!! It looks better that way! I saw on your facebook that you are connected to Stacey-Dee Moris, you her from SuitSupply?
She’s a great person. Have you visited her yet in Cape Town?
Posted on October 13th, 2009 at 6:19 pm
Stylish!!
Posted on October 13th, 2009 at 6:20 pm
I think Michelle is right!
Oh Cape Town…about 20°C now! Was browsing estates/houses in Cape Town the other day….beach, sun….ok, back to work now!
Posted on October 14th, 2009 at 1:20 pm
Hey Guys
Stacey-Dee studied with me in 2001, had no idea she was connected to SuitSupply - it’s that whole global village thing, insane! Cape Town sure is heading for summer and I can’t WAIT! One thing however that I do wish could be different here - getting fashions quicker (been waiting 2 years to get a pair of TOMS Shoes, no suppliers here & no shipping here from their site)… Other than that, it’s beautiful. Nice to meet you guys (I landed here randomly from the sartorialist I think, love what you guys are doing)
Posted on October 14th, 2009 at 1:42 pm
@ Karl: Cape Town dreaming, nice!
TOMS shoes look comfy and fly. If you find an address in the Netherlands you can ship them to us and we will sent them to you, no probs 
@ Michelle: It’s a small world
Few more hours of work to go here in Western Europe! Dinner and drinks with friends. We are giving a friend a NikeID dry-fit shirt with lots of bad text on it
I will make a photo and see if i can post it in a topic.
Posted on October 14th, 2009 at 3:03 pm
Waiting for the pictures, Lance!
Have a nice evening/night!
Posted on October 14th, 2009 at 9:54 pm
Ahh you too kind Lance! Thank you so much, I’ll let you know if I have any luck.
Posted on October 19th, 2009 at 1:20 pm
Do so!
Posted on October 19th, 2009 at 11:40 pm
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