There are a number of factors that influence the difference between a great and a horrible suit. Assuming that you like the appearance and style, the most important though, is not visible. Inside the jacket of a suit, between the outer fabric and the inner smooth lining, there are several layers of fabrics to keep the jacket in shape. This layer is called the canvas and makes all the difference in quality, durability, comfort and price.
The preferred jackets have a floating canvas, where strong yet soft fabrics like cotton and linen are stitches with horse or camel hairs. This ensures a comfortable fit, and makes the jacket look perfect without feeling like you are trapped in a carton box. Bespoke suits use a floating canvas. Cheaply manufactured models have a fused or ‘glued’ canvas. These are less soft and often decrease the suppleness and durability of the jacket.
A floating canvas should be carefully hand stitched (small stitches) to the jacket and the inner lining. This ought to be done in a way to ensure a perfect roll on the lapels. There are some sales clerks who argue that the difference between a floating and a fused canvas is minimal. If you are a novice, you might not feel nor recognize the difference. However, after dry-cleaning or some drizzle, glued suits tend to show irregularities and feel bobbled. In addition, a man’s perspiration is better guided through a floating canvas. A fused canvas may trap the perspiration or mingle with the glue, and could release a mean odor.